My first veronese portrait

My first “Veronese” portrait is about myself! My name is Matilde Garofano and I am one of the founders of Il Garofano Rosa. The purpose of this first article is to tell you about Verona and the relationship I have established over the years with my hometown. I must admit that there have been times when Verona, although being a beautiful city, almost suffocated me with its smallness and limitations. Which is why I left for Milan to study there. I like Milan because this city, although grey compared to the green Verona, has given me access to valuable knowledge, and allowed me to meet extraordinary people, who have made me a better person. It was Milan that gave me the access to art, to experimental cinema, to the theatre, which were all forms of expression that were new to me. It is not surprising then, that in Milan I met love : the man who was to become my husband. And so, my horizons widened even further: destination Paris! My first years in France were intense and not always easy. Because I had to learn a new language, to immerse myself in a new culture, I had to put my Italian past into brackets. These years, spent working and starting my family, certainly put some distance between me and my Italian roots, but it was temporary. When my son was born, I became aware of the importance of refocusing on my Italian culture in order to pass it on to him. I always spoke to him in Italian and as soon as possible I took him with me to Verona. Something extraordinary happened because as I was looking through my son’s eyes, I found my city even more beautiful, I rediscovered it and saw how wonderful  it was. I went home more often and more willingly. By doing so, I started to weave links with the people of Verona again. When I am home, I have daily rituals: start my day with a cappuccino at the café next door, buy my newspaper from Nicoletta who welcomes me with a big smile. Not to mention the florist who drives around the neighbourhood in a van and from who I buy the most beautiful hydrangeas in the world. The people I meet brighten up my days exponentially and cheer me up because they demonstrate a natural kindness and availability which are for me distinctive features of the Italian life, and more specifically of life in Verona. All these people, all these new encounters allow me to appreciate the little things in life and to treasure the present moment, so commonly overlooked in the race against the clock that characterizes our busy daily lives.

Discovering Verona: my favourite places.

 A cultural itinerary

 I love walking through the streets of the historic centre because it’s like going back in time. Crossing the bridge of Castelvecchio, it seems to me that the story of William Shakespeare comes to life: I think I can see Romeo brandishing the sword that will wound Tebaldo. All this is possible because history is tangible in Verona, a city with a resolutely medieval imprint (Castelvecchio, the Scaligere Arch, the Cathedral of Santa Anastasia and the Church of San Zeno are some of the monuments of that period that I prefer). However, Verona conceals other archaeological treasures of inestimable value such as the Arena, the Roman Theatre, Porta Borsari and Porta Leoni, which were built at an earlier period and are well worth a visit. The past and the present are in constant dialogue. I am delighted to know that two thousand years ago a man sat on these same bleachers in the arena to watch a show of fights and gladiatorial competitions. As for the Piazza delle Erbe, it is a true concentrate of artistic beauty and culture, in which I like to immerse myself in each of my trips to Verona.

Where to taste some of Verona’s specialties.

There is no doubt that discovering Italy requires a sense of taste. In Verona, I like to go out early in the morning to have breakfast at the bar; sipping a cappuccino and eating a risino, a typical Verona rice dessert, is almost a morning ritual. I have chosen the Pasticceria Dal Fior, among others, for the quality of the products and the warm welcome. Margherita and all the staff are adorable and always offer me a personalized service. It is to this Pastry Shop that I entrust the creation of the carnation-shaped biscuits that we give to our guests, and it is there that I buy all the sweets that I take along with me when I return to France. I remember with joy and pleasure the time when the pastry chef prepared 17 doves for my child’s classmates. Without forgetting the time when I left with two little traditional witch-shaped dolls (they are called “befane”) filled with sweets to celebrate the epiphany when I got back to France.

To discover the typical cuisine of Verona, I don’t hesitate to recommend the restaurant La Locanda di Castelvecchio, a unique place with an incredible location (it is located in front of the Castle that gives it its name), for the refined welcome once you cross the threshold of the restaurant and for its traditional cuisine based on the luxury of simplicity (tagliolini in broth with chicken liver, tagliatelle in four flavours, the phenomenal trolley of boiled and roasted meats accompanied by various sauces including the “peara of Verona” made with grated bread, marrow and parmesan). La Locanda is a place dear to my heart, to which I am emotionally attached because it has been the scene of some of the most important events in my life: we have always celebrated our birthdays there, I got engaged there and I came back with my “big tummy” when I was expecting my first child.

Where to do your shopping and live unforgettable experiences in exceptional places.

Speaking of unforgettable experiences, I highly recommend a visit to the former Officina profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a magnificent shop entirely dedicated to perfumes and beauty products. The history of this company is very old and it dates back to the middle of the 13th century when the pharmacy was run by Dominican monks. In the course of four hundred years of activity, this historic company, always balancing between tradition and innovation, has gained international fame. Among its innumerable clients from the present and the past are Catherine de Medici, Angelica (from Tomasi di Lampedusa’s novel The Cheetah), Sooyoung Choi (a beautiful Korean actress) and many other stars from all over the world. For Il Garofano Rosa, I buy their  carnation-scented soap and when I need to surprise someone with a refined gift, I ask Elena for advice. She always surprises me with her refinement and good taste.

During one of my visits, I discovered a gallery specialized in vintage furniture and exceptional design objects: Serra 9cento. A very dear friend told me about this incredible and multifaceted place, a kind of showcase where furniture and precious objects signed by famous designers of the 50s and 60s are exhibited. Intrigued, I immediately went to visit her and the meeting with the owner Alessandra was really interesting. Serra 9cento is not only a gallery specialized in modernism, but also a constantly evolving exhibition space where you can attend events and exhibitions of all kinds. The latest event organized by Alessandra was the presentation of the book “Verona”, the latest work of Raffaello Bassotto’s trilogy dedicated to the city where he was born. Icing on the cake, the shop contains an ancient greenhouse that gives its name to this incredible environment, where dinners and other events can be organised.

Another beautiful meeting was with Kim and Francesca, from the Concept Store Conlamamma. The first thing that charmed me about this store was the owner’s choice to focus on the child and the woman. I first bought fun and functional clothes for my son, who loves colours, and then I started buying some for myself. This cheerful and warm place is more than just a store: children are invited to play while their moms do their shopping. The collections on offer to the public are both modern and poetic, and Kim’s choices and Francesca’s advice are truly precious. Kim, originally from Korea, is also a musician. Her love for music took her to Italy and she moved to Verona with her family. I was moved to hear her talk about her life journey and experiences when she moved to Verona.

Alessandra – Serra 9cento

Margherita – Pasticceria Dal Fior

Elena – Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Alberto – La Locanda di Castelvecchio

Conlamamma

Elena – Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Pasticceria Dal Fior

Pasticceria Dal Fior

Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Serra 9cento

Conlamamma

Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Francesca e Kim – Conlamamma

La Locanda di Castelvecchio

La Locanda di Castelvecchio

Serra 9cento

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